Easy Recipes

I have sung the praises of Things Wrapped in Dough many times before, from Eastern European kreplach and knishes to Turkish manti. Im not sure what it is about them—the fun of having your own gift-wrapped surprise? The adorable tidiness of the whole package? Whatever it is, Im hooked. Especially when theyre as delicious as these empanadillas.

These tidy little turnovers combine some of my favorite Spanish flavors: rich oil-packed tuna, smoky pimenton, and briny capers, all of which are set off by the tangy tomato in the filling and surprisingly sweet orange zest and juice in the dough. And yes, the cauliflower might not be traditional. But I like vegetables (and it works quite well).

Unlike their Latin American counterparts, the Spanish version of these turnovers features a rich rather than lean dough (and Ive gilded the lily a bit, using my favorite technique to build in even more flaky layers). Sadly the standard Things Wrapped in Dough disclaimer applies: as with any time you have to Make The Dough, Make The Filling, and then Wrap The Filling In The Dough, these empanadillas arent the quickest meal. But theyre delicious. You can make up for this by preparing the dough and filling at separate times, or by doubling the recipe and making an army of empanadillas for your freezer in one big session. Because theyre briny, smoky, punchy and delicious. In short, theyre worth it.


Smoky Tuna-Cauliflower Empanadillas 

Inspired to some degree by some regional Spanish cookbook I no longer remember, dough technique inspired by Chez Pim. With the cauliflower, theyre nearly a complete meal, but I like to serve with a big salad.

yields ~10 turnovers

Dough:
2 1/2 cups flour (I like to swap out 1/2 cup whole wheat flour, but thats optional)
1 pinch salt
zest of 1 orange
1/2 pound cold unsalted butter, cut into pats
~1/3 cups orange juice (you can squeeze this from the orange you zested)

Filling:
3 tablespoons olive oil
salt and pepper to taste 

The time I spend cooking can vary hugely. There are ornate dinners with multiple courses and fiddly elements, and then there are salads and stir-fries that take barely any time at all. It generally depends upon my culinary inspiration, work schedule, and level of interest/fatigue. But there is one exception: Indian food. Every time I cook Indian, its never a quick meal. Its a production. I haul out half the spices in my cabinet, measure out carefully-diced vegetables or spice combinations into multiple little prep dishes, and create a table-groaning feast. I dont seem to know any other way. Its a delicious undertaking, to be sure (and one that creates a lot of leftovers), but it aint quick.

But through the genius that is cookbook author Madhur Jaffrey, Ive discovered another way. Jaffrey is an amazing Indian cook, and a few years back came out with a book detailing spot-on dishes that dont require a multi-hour commitment. And earlier today, as I was trying to think of a quick, easy, veg-heavy dish to bring to a friend, I leafed through her memoir and found the inspiration for this dish.

This recipe, more of a stir-fry than a simmered-forever dish, is quick, delicious, and makes a great complement to heavier, saucier dishes (if you, like me, decide to negate its time-saving value by making it part of a larger spread). The original dish called just for cauliflower, but I couldnt resist throwing some nice fat carrots in as well. The vegetables are caramelized in a hot pan to give a bit of sweet depth, then tossed with a dusting of spices to create a savory-tangy, light-yet-warm dish. I served it up with some tomato biryani and dal, but you can just as easily enjoy it on its own, with just a bit of rice or flatbread (and the mango pickle thats my current obsession). Its healthy, authentic, and doesnt take much more time than throwing together a salad.


Everyday Indian Cauliflower and Carrots

adapted, a bit heavily, from Madhur Jaffreys Climbing the Mango Trees
yields 5-6 servings, especially as part of a spread of other dishes

1/4 cup oil (Jaffrey recommends peanut or olive, but I went with the much-more-delicious coconut)
4-6 carrots, peeled and cut into thick disks
1 small cauliflower, broken into small florets
3/4 teaspoon coarse salt
1/4 teaspoon turmeric
1/4 teaspoon cayenne
1 1/2 teaspoon ground coriander
1 teaspoon amchur powder (dried green mango), or 2 tablespoons lemon juice
generous pinch asafoetida
1 teaspoon cumin seeds
1-inch piece ginger, peeled and julienned
1 handful coarsely chopped cilantro
1 small fresh green or red chili, minced (optional)

Pour the oil into a large frying pan and set over medium-high heat. When hot, add the carrots, and cook, stirring occasionally, until caramelized on the outside and cooked-yet-crisp on the inside, ~7 minutes. Transfer to a bowl, and then cook the cauliflower until the same, ~5 minutes.

While the vegetables are cooking, mix together the salt, turmeric, cayenne, coriander, and amchur (if using) in a small bowl. When the vegetable are cooked, sprinkle with the herbs (and lemon juice, if using instead of amchur), and toss to combine.

In the same pan in which you cooked the vegetables, add the pinch of asafoetida (if theres a lot of oil left, you can drain some, but I found that the cauliflower sopped up most of it). Let sizzle for a few seconds, then add the cumin seeds and stir until sizzling. Add the ginger, and stir for under a minute. Add the cauliflower and carrot, mix gently, then add a splash of water, lower the heat, and cover. Cook for a minute or two, until the vegetables have softened and the flavors have blended. Sprinkle with the cilantro and chili, and serve.

I dont know if its a result of having moved around a lot, or having suffered through teensy apartment kitchens, but I have little patience for cooking utensils that have only one use. You could clutter your drawer and empty your wallet buying specialized slicers for mangos and avocados and pineapples. But I much prefer sticking with a single knife, thanks. Whenever Im given such a single-use item, I quietly wait until I can run to the kitchen store and exchange it for something useful. Like cupcake liners. Or chocolate.

A few years back, my sister gave me a set of a half-dozen small pyrex prep bowls. They hold just a few tablespoons each, and I was all set to exchange them for something that wasnt quite so dollhouse-sized. Except I never got around to it, and one day I ended up using them. And now, of course, I love them. Especially when Im making Indian food.

The ingredient list for curries, like the one below, can seem a little daunting. And often the cooking happens quick, with ingredients dumped into a hot pan as soon as seeds start popping or vegetables start coloring. Of course, you can pre-measure your spices into standard-sized dishes or saucers if you dont have prep bowls. But Im totally smitten with their tiny size, especially in our dishwasherless household. In the case of this cauliflower curry, you measure out some whole seasonings and aromatics to hit the hot pan in the beginning, and then some more to follow before you add the vegetables. The tomato (canned works just fine here) braises down to make a thick sauce for the cauliflower, coating it with tangy spices. Its simple, relatively quick, and totally delicious.


Tangy Indian Cauliflower with Braised Tomato

adapted from Spicy Cauliflower with Braised Tomato in Lord Krishnas Cuisine: The Art of Indian Vegetarian Cooking

serves 4-5, depending upon other dishes served

2-3 Tbsp ghee or oil (a high-heat oil like canola, peanut or coconut is good)
1" piece fresh ginger root, cut into thin julienne
1-2 fresh chiles, seeded and cut into thin slivers (or substitute a pinch or two of cayenne, added with the coriander)
1/2 tsp black mustard seeds
1 tsp cumin seeds
1 Tbsp coriander
1/2 tsp turmeric
1/2 - 1 tsp salt
1 large head cauliflower (about 3 lbs), trimmed, cored, and broken/cut into florets
1 lb tomatoes, fresh or canned, cut into eighths (if large) or quarters (if small/medium)
1 tsp garam masala
2 Tbsp chopped cilantro
1 Tbsp butter (optional)

Heat the oil or ghee in a large pan over a moderately high heat. While its heating, prep and measure out your ginger, chiles (if using), and mustard and cumin seeds. When the oil is hot but not smoking, add the pre-measured seasonings all at once. Cook until the cumin seeds darken and the mustard seeds pop (you might need to use a lid to keep them from popping all over your stove). This should take less than a minute, depending on the heat.

When the popping has subsided, add the coriander, turmeric and salt. Stir a moment to toast the spices and distribute them, then drop in the cauliflower florets, and stir-fry until theyre lightly browned. Stir in the tomatoes. Cover, reduce heat to low, and cook 15-25 minutes, stirring occasionally, until the cauliflower is just tender.

When the cauliflower is almost done, uncover the pan and raise the heat back to high. Cook, stirring occasionally, until the remaining liquid is reduced to a thick glaze. Sprinkle with garam masala and cilantro, top with the butter (if desired), and add additional salt if needed. Serve with rice or naan.